Wax and Bubbles

Shaker Style furniture is a distinctive style of furniture designed and developed in the late 18th century/early 19th Century. Not only was the furniture well made but so was most everythings else that was built or developed in that time period including candles. Here is a recipe to making your own shaker-style candles.

You Will Need:

Felt-tip marker
3/4″-thick sponge
Crafts knife
Old baking pan
Waxed paper
Parraffin wax
Double boiler
Deep-red wax dye
Spoon or Stirrer
Small heart-shaped cookie cutter
Aquamarine water-based paint
Plate
Dishwashing Liquid
Candle
Wax glue
Fine paintbrush

Draw 1 square on the spnge; draw cross in center to divide the square into 4 small squares. Using a knife, cut away half the sponge’s depth in 2 diagonally opposite squares to form the checkerboard design.

Line the pan with waxed poaper. Melt a small amount of the wax in top of double boiler; add the dye. Stir until well blended. Pour the wax into the pan; tilt the pan to spread the wax into a thin even layer. While the wax is soft, cut out the hearts with the cookie cutter. You can use any shape you want really. It is your choice, just don’t choose a large design that is bigger than you candle.

Pour small amount of paint onto the plate; add dishwashing liquid so mixture is the consistency of a thick cream. Dip the sponge into the paint; press onto the candle to make the broder. Let dry. Gently press the hearts against the candle so they mold to the candle shape. Melt the wax glue; brush glue onto the wrong side of the heart mole and press onto the candle once more. Attach remaining hearts in teh same way all around the candle.

You will need:

-Premium candle wax (about 2 pounds per candle)
-Double boiler
-Candle or candy thermometer
-Packages of candle dye and scent
-Package of metal-core wick with screw (wick size depends on the mold diameter)
-Metal mold in desired shape
-Thin dowel
-Mold sealer
-Pouring container with spout
-Skewer
-Candle-gloss spray

To begin:

Melting was by breaking wax into small pieces , place the pieces into a pot of double boiler. Fill lower pit with water, place on the stove. Place the thermometer in wax, heat to 190°F, stirring constantly. Add the dye and scent to the wax at this point. Be sure and follow the manufacture’s suggested amounts.

Thread wick through the bottom hole in the mold. Place dowel across top of mold; tie wick to the dowel. Turn mold over and trim the wick to 1”. Wind wick around screw head; secure bottom with mold sealer. Heat the mold by running warm water over outside of the mil.

Pour the wax into pouring container. Tilt the mold; slowly pour in wax to desired candle height. Reserve about 1 cup of wax for fill indentation, which will form in center of candle as it sets. Let candle set up for 1 hour. Poke skewer into the candle next to the wick to remove pressure, which builds up as the candle begins to set.

Reheat reserved was in the microwave; pour into indentation. Do not pout wax higher than level of previous pour. Let candle ser overnight. Remove sealer and screw and untie knot. Turn the mold over upside down so candle will slip out. Use a low-melt hot glue gun to attach dried fruits or flowers to the side of the candle. Melt additional wax; dip embellished candle into the wax to seal. Let set. Finish the candle by spraying with candle-gloss spray.

Making the Gold Leaf Candles:

What you will need:

-Felt tip marker
-Tracing paper
-Masking tape
-Sheets of gold leaf
-Pillar candle
-Ballpoint pen, pencil or skewer

Using marker, draw desired motifs on the tracing paper. Tape gold leaf, with the gold side down to the candle. Tape the motif over the gold leaf paper. Using a pen, draw over motif to transfer the gold leaf to the candle on the outside. Peel back the gold leaf to insure entire motif has been transferred onto the entire section you are wanting on your candle. Remove motif and gold leaf as well. Using a fresh sheet of gold leaf, repeat taping and transferring motifs to cover the entire candle, if you choose. Do not place tape over the areas where the gold leaf has been applied.

Making the Stenciled Pillars:

What you will need:

-Candle
-Ruler
-Stenciled plastic
-Pencil
-Crafts
-Knife
-Spray Stencil Adhesive
-Nontoxic spray paint

Measure height and circumference of candle; mark the dimensions on stencil plastic. Draw design on the plastic to fit inside the outlines. Cut out parts of design to make the stencil.

Spray back of stencil with adhesive; press onto candle. Spray candle with paint; let dry. Remove the stencil once the paint is dry. To finish the candle spray finished candle with the stencil dried completely with candle gloss spray. If you stick to smaller stencils they will show up and be seen easier than larger stencils. So choose wisely. This an other tools needed to make these are available at any hobby or craft store worldwide,

…..for that fresh drunken Irish clean feeling.

Glycerin soap, clear for a more transparent green or white for a more solid green color
Soap dye in green
Soap molds in shamrock shape or other St. Patrick’s Day shape
Microwave safe liquid measuring cup
Spoon
Popsicle stick or coffee stirrer
Knife

If using bars of soap, cut into three pieces. If using purchased glycerin blocks, cut off 2-3 pre-measured chunks. Place glycerin soap into a measuring cup, microwave for 20 seconds), then in 10-second intervals until melted. Add colors. Add a few drops and stir with a spoon. If you want the color darker, simply add more dye.

Slowly pour the liquid soap into the mold. Set aside to harden for 45 minutes to an hour.

After soap has cooled completely, pop them out of the molds.

*While you’re in the festive mood, why not make a St. Patrick’s Day Green Beer Candle:*

A glass beer mug
Candle gel
Standard paraffin wax
An appropriate wick length
Green candle coloring and fragrance if desired
A wire whisk
Standard candle making equipment

Take the wick, make it longer than you would need and tie it around a pencil. Place the pencil length-wise across the lip of the mug. Melt the gel over med HIGH heat on the stove or in a microwaveable-safe dish in the microwave. Once the gel is liquefied add green coloring and fragrance if using. Once fragrance and color is incorporated, pour directly into mug. You might want to hold the wick by the pencil straight up from the middle to keep it straight while pouring. Before starting the next step, allow the gel to fully harden.

Next step is to melt the paraffin wax in the same manor as above. Either way will work fine. While the paraffin is melting your need to whip the wax so as to add bubbles to the wax. Pour the whipped wax directly on the top of the gel in the mug. Be sure to hold the wick straight up and down do that it is even with the rest of the candle and won’t burn sideways. Let everything harden completely for a day or two before burning. Or use it for your St. Patrick’s Day decor while you party it up Irish-style this evening.

All you need are sheets of beeswax and wicks. You can purchase these at craft stores, bee keeping supply companies or from an online source. To find an online source simply search the words, “candle making”, “wax sheets”, or “beeswax sheets.”

The honeycomb wax is a neat little added flair to the tapers. But, you can use smooth as well, either one works great. They are available in a wide range of colors. The cost for an 8″ x 16″ sheet will run you about two dollars.

Determine the size of the wick to purchase by the diameter of the candles you plan to make. Most sources will have a chart of recommendations to help you pick out the right wick. Wicks come in flat braid or square braid. For the most flexibility, you may want to purchase a range of wick sizes.

Buy enough wax and wick that you will be able to do a few test runs.

To get started warm the wax in the sun until it softens a bit or you can heat it by placing it on a towel lined cookie sheet in a 250 degree oven. It just takes a couple of minutes for the wax to soften and become pliable.

Determine the height of the candle you want and cut the sheet accordingly. Next cut a piece of wick about 1/2 inches longer than the height of your candle. Place the wick 1/8 of an inch from the edge of the wax sheet and press firmly so that it is well sealed. Now gently roll the sheet tightly, making sure the ends are even. When you have created the diameter desired, use a utility knife to trim any excess and a warm metal spatula to seal the edge. Trim the wick down to about 1/2 inch on top.

To increase the diameter of the candle, simply roll the first sheet with the wick in it with a new sheet lining up the edge of the new sheet with the unsealed outer edge of the candle and begin to roll again. Continue these steps until you have the diameter you prefer.

It’s amazing how popular candles have become, particularly around the holiday season, and to think, the essentail ingredient here is from out friend the honeybee.

Votives are arguably one of the easiest kinds of molded candles to make. They add a great deal of charm to just about any setting. The typical votive will burn for approximately 15 hours and will consume just about all of the wax that was used to create it.

A properly crafted votive will liquefy to some degree as it burns. This is necessary to achieve good scent throw. Votives are not intended to be free standing candles. Therefore it is important to burn votives only in a holder that is intended for votives.

What you will need:

· Wax suitable for votives
· Wax additives (only if needed for your wax formulation)
· Fragrance oil (optional)
· Dye (optional)
· Pre-tabbed wicks suitable for votives (36-24-24 zinc core used here)
· Metal Votive Molds
· Mold release spray (optional)
· Pouring pot
· Thermometer
Step 1). Prepare your molten wax mixture. You should be able to review these instructions while your wax is melting. Before continuing, set up a double boiler to melt your wax. A good target temperature for votives is 175° F. Once your wax has completely melted, add any additives you have selected and mix thoroughly, but try to avoid introducing air into the mixture. Add them in the following order:

1. Additives such as vybar or stearic acid (but only if needed)

2. Fragrance Oil

3. Dye (this is done last so that you get visual confirmation that everything else has mixed well with the wax)

Before pouring your wax, you may want to lightly coat your molds with a very thin film of mold-release agent such as silicone spray or a Pam-type cooking spray. This helps aid the release of the finished candle from the mold. However, it is really only needed with new molds.

Step 2). Votives: Initial Wax Pour
Place your votive molds on a newspaper-lined surface to catch any spills. With your wax at the proper pouring temperature (about 175° F), fill your votive molds to the lip of the mold. The objective here is to get the wax just up to the lip without over flowing. If you pour to a level lower than the lip, you may get seam lines in your finished candle. Care should be taken to minimize the number of bubbles introduced while pouring. Save about 20% of your wax for the re-pour at a later step. Do not return it to the heat source.

Step 3). Add Pre-tabbed Wicks.
Wait for your wax to cool for a short period of time. While it is cooling, prepare your wicks by straightening them. They do not need to be perfectly straight at this point; a loose approximation of “straight” is fine. Once the wax just begins to congeal, insert your pre-tabbed wicks. The tab will “stick” to the bottom when it touches. Care should be taken to position the tab roughly in the center of the mold.

Once the tab has stuck to the base of the mold, it is very easy to manipulate the wick to straighten it. Sometimes you may wish to wait a few moments to allow the metal tab to form a stronger bond with the base of the mold before attempting to straighten the wick.

During the cooling process, the shrinking wax may pull the wick off-center. If this occurs, simply apply a light tug to straighten the wick from time to time. Do not use so much force as to free the metal tab on the base.

Allow your wax to completely cool before proceeding to the next step. This may take 3-4 hours.

Step 4). Votives: Re-pour Wax
When the wax has completely cooled, it will have shrunken a bit, leaving a sink hole that needs to be filled. Melt down the wax that you saved from step 2 above. This time, your target pouring temperature will be 10-15 degrees hotter than the initial pour (pour at about 190 deg. F for this step). This increased temperature is to facilitate adhesion between layers.

Once your wax is at the proper temperature, fill the molds to a level just slightly above the lip of the mold. Care should be taken to avoid spills. Allow your candles to completely cool.

Step 5). Molded Candle Instructions: Remove Votive from Mold

Once your votives are completely cool, remove them from the mold. They will usually slide right out without any difficulty if they are completely cool. If they are difficult to remove from the molds, place them in the freezer for about 5 minutes. This will usually do the trick.If they are still difficult, place them back in the freezer for another 5 minutes and try again.

Also, for very stubborn candles, it sometimes helps to gently press the sides of the mold inward as you “roll” the mold in the palms of your hands

Always burn votives in a votive holder. Remember that they are not intended to be free-standing candles and they will liquefy. (Source: Pioneer Thinking)

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WAX AND BUBBLES PRODUCT SHOWCASE:

Aromatique, the Creator of Decorative Fragrance, was created in 1982 by Patti Upton and is based in Heber Springs, Arkansas. Patti created this dynamic company literally “just for fun.” She mixed together a mélange of native botanicals such as acorns, pine cones, gumballs and hickory nuts, fragranced them with spices, oils and ingenuity.

Still looking for a last minute Christmas gift idea? Why not make one? Here is a quick and painless way of making soy-candles and it only takes about 15 minutes.

But first, here are some facts about soy wax:

• It’s biodegradeable.

• It’s sustainable.

• It provides a longer burn without a soot buildup.

• You can clean it up with soap and water, eliminating the need for solvents.

• It’s made from 100% natural soybeans.

Materials needed:

Recycled glassware such as Mason jars, candy dishes, thrift-store cups, salsa and jam jars. (choose containers that are less than 4″ in diameter.)

1 package braided wick (size-appropriate for chosen chandle containers. Incorporate alternative fibers by using hemp wicks.)

Soda-can tab

Tape

Pencil or pen

Melting pot or old cooking pot that you’re no longer using for food

Soy wax flakes (can be found at any healthfood store)

Craft or candy thermometer (optional)

Cinnamon, peppermint or other essential oil

Biodegradeable cotton ribbon (optional)

Hot glue gun and glue

1. Cut a section of braided wick a few inches longer than the depth of your chosen glasswater container. Tie an end of the wick to a coda can tab. To stabilize the wick, add a dab of hot glue to the bottom of the tab, then affix tab to the bottom of the container. Wrap top of wick around a pencil or pen a few times and tape it down temporarily. Set aside. Repeat process for additional candles.

2. In a pot over medium heat, melt about 1 lb. of the soy flakes per 1-2 medium0sized candles. Stir continuously until the soy wax melts to about 155 degreeds. Once it’s completely liquedied, remove from the head and let cool for a few minutes, continuing to stir.

3. Once the temperature has dropped about 5 degrees, add 10-20 drops of essential oil of your liking and mix well. Soy wax is easy to work with so you can get by without using a thermometer.

4. Pour liquid wax into containers, leaving an inch or two of space at the top. Let dry overnight. The set soy candles wax should look smooth and creamy-white.

5. Remove tape and pencil from the wick. Leaving about 1″ of exposed wick, snip off excess.

6. If you’re giving these candles as gifts, add a ribbon and tie in a fancy bow. Use hot glue to hold the ribbon on the container in place.

**Time is running low on getting those Christmas cards out in the mail before the morning of Santa comes. Over at Artists Passion, Wendy Withers has some ideas on Christmas cards to help give you the push you need to get them done, posted and out the door. Read the ideas here.**
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WAX AND BUBBLES PRODUCT SHOWCASE:

A Cheerful Giver: Keepers Of The Light Jar Candles.

This is a fun project for kids and even some adults.

Materials for the Swiss Cheese Candles:
• Beeswax strips or pellets (Can be found at any craft store or healthfood store)
• Candle Wicks or Tappered Candle
• 2 Pint Milk Carton
• Crushed Ice

Instructions:

Cut off the top of the milk carton so that you have a “box” with one end open. Next, Melt wax over medium heat. Place one of the wicks into the milk carton and fill the carton with the ice. Be sure that the wick is centered and is as long as the carton. Next, pour the melted wax into the carton filling to the top. Let sit until hardened and the ice has melted, then carefully cut and peel away the carton from the candle. You will now have a candle. The ice in the carton caused the wax to quickly harden around the crushed ice. The result is a “swiss cheese” looking candle. Each one looks a little different! These must be handled carefully after because the swiss cheese nature of the candle makes it fragile.

You can use colored candles or colored crayons or wax to give it a different effect each time. These are particularly fun to make and use only about 2-or-3 crushed cubes and once they are done, put a ribbon through one of the Swiss Cheese holes and tie to a package along side the gifting bow. But have fun with it and be creative.

**The Board of Trustees chairman of Appalachian State University’s Jim Deal, says the university should “build more green.” Over at Appalachian State Blog the whole story behind his quote is posted. Read it all by clicking here.**

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• Making Bath Salts

• More On Room Scents

The bottom line in candle making is patience. Next would come the equipment. If you have been wanting to make you own candles but just haven’t really know where to start, there is candle making kits avaliable almost everywhere, even Wal-Mart. The best candle making kit that I have run across is at Great Candle. They pretty much include in their kit everything you will need in order to get started right away. Their kits include:

• Votive Kit $28.00 - Perfect Kit to start with, Kit contains: 4 lbs of Soy/Blend votive wax, 8 votive molds, 32 wicks 4 - 1oz. bottles of fragrance, Honeydew Melon, Apples and Berries, Kiwi Strawberry, Cherry, approx 1/2 red color block, approx. 1/2 green color block, and complete instructions . Kit makes approx. 32 candles.

• Basic Soy Container Kit $28.00 - Perfect for the beginner. Kit contains: 5.25 lbs Southern Scentsations GW Soy, 12 Jelly jars, 12 Htp wicks, 3.95 oz’s of Southern Apple Pie, 3.95 oz’s of Love Spell fragrances, a Red Dye Block. Kit contains instructions, and Candle Making tips.

• Deluxe Soy Container Kit $75.99 - Kit includes all of the Basic Soy Kit: 5.25 lbs Southern Scentsations GW Soy, 12 Jelly jars, 12 Htp wicks, 3.95 oz’s of Southern Apple Pie, 3.95 oz’s of Love Spell fragrances, a Red Dye Block. Kit contains instructions, and Candle Making tips. Plus you get a Presto Pot for melting wax, A Pouring Pot, Thermometer, and a Ladle.

You can take any of these candle making recipes and supplies and add an essential oil to them and make them original and your own. You can even get a register from your own state and patent these candles for profit. Simple as that. The more you make the better you will get and the more you experiment with oils and floral scents the more you will learn about what scents last longer and what scents don’t.

More supplies you may need are as follows.

° Wicks

° Dye

° Containers

° Molds

° Scents

**Is Sara Sidle (aka Jorja Fox) leaving CSI Las Vegas for good? Over at Watching CSI, KD Griffin talks about what will happen on tonights show and whether that question will be answered or not. Read the whole story here.**

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Soy or beeswax candles can be purchased just about anywhere anymore. If you purchase just any-type of candle be it not beeswax or soy wax-based, always make sure it doesn’t contain a wire wick. Wire wicks give off chemicals that can be very harmful to your lungs and growing children’s lungs when inhaled.

For this craft you want to choose/make candles that are light in color. White, yellow and even a lighter shade of tan can be used.

Take a large-base pillar candle and run a smooth knife blade down the side of the candle, just to take off a small shaving of the candle on the outside and to loosen the wax just a little. This process also removes any dirt that might be on the candle from store handling. Save those shavings for later on in the project.

Now is the fun part. Head outside your home or to a park and pick up bright colored leaves. Be sure and not get leaves that are taller than your candle. Small Maple leaves are what I have used in the past and they are so colorful when the candle is lit.

Be sure and wash the leaves and dry them before applying them to the candle. Once the leaves are ready to be applied, take some white glue and and q-tip. With the q-tip apply a small amount of white glue all over the leaf and apply to the sides of the candle. Repeat this process till you get a nice leaf decoration on the outside of the candle. You can use just one leaf if you want or use 5-6 leaves for a bigger fall decorative design. While the glue is setting on the candle and leaf, The shavings that you took off earlier, pop them in the microwave in a microwave bowl that you don’t mind using for wax. About 30-50 seconds, depending on how much wax you took off. You may need to buy some additional beeswax or wax pellets if you use a lot of leaves for your design.

Once the wax is melted. Take the candle with the leaves, and over another bowl or paper plate, pour the wax slowly over the leaf designs and make sure you go slow enough in order not to waste the wax. Coat the entire leaf, even the stem with wax. Then repeat with a second coat when the first coat is dry.

You can do several candles of different sizes to get a fall decorative design that can be used as a center piece within your Thanksgiving dinner table.

**Do you like taking a drive through neighborhoods at Christmas-time and looking at holiday lights? Over at Louisville, KY blog here at 451 Press, Heather Hedgepeth gives a rundown of the lighting schedule for Louisville. So if you live close, you can be in the know on the best light displays in the city. Read the schedule here.**

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Citronella candles are a popular, natural way to keep mosquitoes at bay. The slight lemon scent isn’t all that bothersome to us humans, but bugs seem to really hate it! Lighting a few citronella candles at an outdoor dinner party, barbeque, or picnic is a great way to add ambiance and keep the pests away at the same time.

These candles come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and colours. You can get them in pots, tins, on sticks, or as votives or tea lights. If you want to make your citronella candles really personal and unique, it’s easy to make them yourself.

All you need to do is pick up some citronella oil, and add it as your scent to your regular wax candle recipes. Make sure you get the small bottles of pure citronella oil, rather than citronella burning oil, which will NOT work in candles.

About.com has a great set of instructions for making citronella torches. I prefer to make them in old tin buckets or terra cotta flower pots. However you make them, make sure that they’re used outdoors only!

Enjoy!

We just got our backyard fixed up and all ready for entertaining. My husband built a new picnic table and the garden is coming along nicely (which is great because I loathe gardening). Now it’s time to add some finishing touches!

The first thing I thought of were sand candles. Sand candles are made by pouring hot wax into a mold of wet sand, and then letting it harden before digging it out. The sand and the wax combine around the outside of the candle, making a thick wall that contains the wax. They’re really pretty, and perfect for outdoor entertaining.

I found a good set of step-by-step instructions for making sand candles here at Home Envy. Instead of pulling the candle out of the sand by the wick, though, it’s best to use a spoon or small shovel and dig the candle out. Then you’ll want to brush off any loose clumps of sand before putting the candles out. You can flatten the bottom by melting the wax at the base of the candle with a lighter.

If you want to get really creative, try embedding sea shells, rocks, or sea glass around the lip of the candle before the wax sets.

So that’s what I’ll be doing this weekend, and hopefully I’ll have pictures to share with you on Monday!

candle making, sand candles, candle project, outdoor entertaining, outdoor decor

As with any type of candle making project, this one requires adult supervision. Keep little hands away from melted wax, because it’s very hot!

There are a couple of different ways to make crayon candles, so I’ll share the basic method first, and then give you some variations.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Lots of broken crayons
• Candle mold, glass jar, or an old milk carton cut down to a few inches tall
• Candle wicks
• Optional: crushed ice, white paraffin wax, candle glitter, candle paints

Sort the crayons into colour groups, with like colours together. This is optional, but if you melt them all together you’ll end up with an odd sort of colour for your finished candle.

Melt the crayons, one colour group at a time, in a double boiler over low heat, stirring gently but frequently. Meanwhile, prepare the mold or container by placing the wick in the centre. If you have tabbed wicks, you can put a little bit of the melted crayon wax on the bottom of the tab to hold it in place. Otherwise you’ll have to keep it centred by using two pencils or chopsticks tied together with the top of the wick between them; rest the pencils or chopsticks over the mouth of the mold.

Slowly pour the melted crayon into the mold, making sure that the wick stays centred. Melt the next batch of colours and continue to pour them, one on top of the other, until the mold is full. Allow the wax to harden completely before removing from the mold. (If you’re using a glass container, you won’t need to remove the finished candle.) Trim the wick to 1/2 inch above the wax.

(more…)

There’s something homey and comforting about beeswax, with its warm natural scent and eye-catching texture. Beeswax sheets make great candles, and they’re really simple to roll. You can find beeswax sheets at many craft stores, or purchase them online at places like Knorr Beeswax. If you enjoy working with craft kits, there are beeswax candle kits too.

There’s really only one main method of rolling these candles, although you can change the size and shape of the wax sheet to create different sized and shaped candles. Candlehelp.com has a terrific tutorial to make a basic rolled candle, and they’ve included priming the wick for a nice added touch. If you plan to sell your candles, take the time to do this so that your candles will stand out from the rest.

Taper candles can be made from beeswax sheets by cutting the wax diagonally, and rolling starting at the widest end. You can layer a couple of different colours this way to, and create a striped taper. Use an extra long wick and roll a taper on each side to create a pair of matching tapers that you can hang on a rack at craft fairs or stores. For extra-special candles, press some candle glitter along the edges. (Make sure it’s candle glitter, however!)

Want to try something really different? How about these cute little sushi candles from Wicks and Wax? They’re the perfect table accent for a dinner party.

beeswax candles, rolled candles, taper candles, candle making, natural candles, candle crafts

This is one technique that I have yet to master. It’s a lot trickier than this very talented lady makes it appear! Just a little weekend viewing to inspire you, courtesy of YouTube. If you enjoy this video, check out YouTube Digger for more cool YouTube stuff.

you tube, candle crafts, carved candles, candle making